How to make steamed shrimp with roe and tobiko caviar and yes, you can use prawns instead

The words “shrimp” and “prawn” are often used interchangeably, depending on where the person saying them comes from: Britons tend to refer to all types of these crustaceans as prawns, while in the United States, it’s usually shrimp.

The distinction has nothing to do with size – shrimp are not necessarily smaller than prawns – but anatomically, they are different. The most obvious difference is that prawns have back shell “plates” that overlap starting at the base of the head and get smaller towards the tail, while with shrimp, the second shell plate overlaps the one in front, going towards the head, and the one behind it.

Many people think shrimp come only from the sea and prawns only from fresh water, but that’s not true: carabineros prawns are caught from the ocean while the tiny, delicate shrimp served in Shanghainese restaurants are from a river.

Steamed shrimp with roe and tobiko caviar

Unless a recipe calls for a specific type of prawn or shrimp, they can be used interchangeably. The most important aspect for most recipes is freshness: choose whatever is best in the market that day. Asian seafood markets usually offer a good selection of sizes at reasonable prices.

Dried shrimp roe is sold in small jars in Chinese grocery shops. The roe are tiny, but intensely flavoured. It can be left out, but it adds a lot of flavour to the dish, and one jar will last a long time in the fridge.

Before steaming the shrimp, check the dish you are cooking them on (which will also be the serving dish) fits in the steamer. I speak from experience …

50 grams fen si (also called mung bean or glass vermicelli)
8-10 shrimp or prawns, about 8cm long
1 medium-size garlic clove, peeled
1 slender, mildly spicy green or red chilli
1-2 spring onions
About 10ml fish sauce
About ¼ tsp dried shrimp roe
10-15 grams tobiko caviar
About 20ml shrimp oil or cooking oil

1 Put the fen si in a bowl, cover with warm water and leave to soak while preparing the other ingredients. Drain then cut the noodles into shorter lengths.

2 Use kitchen shears to cut off the legs, claws and antennae from the shrimp. Trim off the “face” of the shrimp, cutting right behind the eyes. If the ridge on the top of the head is sharp and ragged, trim it so it’s smooth.

3 Use the kitchen shears to cut the back shell of the shrimp, starting just below the head and cutting towards the tail. Pull out and discard the black vein.

4 Lay each shrimp cut-side up on a chopping board. Use a sharp paring knife to slice across the “neck”, cutting deeply but not all the way through; the head should remain attached. Make a deep cut along the length of the back of the shrimp/prawn, again, not cutting all the way through so it remains intact along the belly. The cut should be deep enough that the shrimp/prawn can be opened almost flat.

How to make soy sauce prawns, the Cantonese seafood restaurant classic

5 Cut the garlic clove in half, then into thin pieces. Cut the chilli on the diagonal into thin slices, removing and discarding most of the seeds. Thinly slice the spring onions.

6 Lay the drained fen si on a heatproof serving dish that fits into your steamer.

7 Arrange the shrimp over the fen si. Drizzle a little fish sauce over the flesh of each shrimp, then sprinkle lightly with shrimp roe. Scatter the garlic and chilli pieces on top.

8 Pour water into a wok to a depth of about 3cm. Put a low-footed rack in the wok, then place over a high flame. When the water boils, place the dish on the rack and cover with the wok lid. Steam over a high flame for five to eight minutes, or until the shrimp are cooked.

9 While the shrimp are steaming, heat the shrimp oil or cooking oil until very hot.

10 Remove the dish from the steamer. Scatter with the spring onion and drizzle the hot oil over the shrimp.

11 Spoon the tobiko caviar over the shrimp, then serve.

Shrimp or prawn shell oil

If I prepare a dish where the shrimp or prawns are de-shelled, I save the heads and shells and store them in the freezer. When I have enough, I make a batch of shrimp (or prawn) oil.

Shrimp/prawn shells and heads
Cooking oil

1 Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Lightly oil a baking dish, then spread the shrimp shells and heads over the dish.

2 Bake at 180 degrees for about 15 minutes, or until the shells and heads turn pink, stirring occasionally.

3 Put the shells and heads in a saucepan and add oil so they are almost covered.

4 Place the pan over a medium flame and heat until the oil starts to bubble around the edges. Lower the heat and cook at a very low sizzle for about 30 minutes, stirring often.

5 Allow the ingredients to cool, then pour through a fine sieve into a jar or bottle. Store in the fridge for up to three months.

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